Thanks to Mark for the coffee and conversation this morning in his cabin at the campground.
Today was brutal. Fighting strong headwinds the whole way, lots of hills, lots of dogs. I decided after 50 miles to push ahead to the next town and do 70 miles instead, when I got there the bnb had run out of rooms. It started raining, so I rode to a campsite nearby but I was informed that they didn’t allow tent camping (????) I called the volunteer fire department to see if they’d let me camp out on their property but they didn’t pick up (cool). Then I ended up doing a bonus 10 miles off-route in the dark and the rain to get to a motel. Probably my favorite day so far.